Instructions for
Sowing
Wild Flower Seeds
Sowing Times:
Wild Flower seeds can be sown all year round, but best results are
generally achieved by sowing in the Autumn (August to early October) or
Spring (February to May). Different authorities often advocate
different sowing instructions for the same seed. The instructions
with our seeds are based on what we have found to be successful in our
Nursery, but
very good results can be obtained by sowing at other times and it can be
fun to experiment.
Some wild flower seeds will germinate easily, but
others can take longer. Many wild flowers have mechanisms designed
to delay germination and may take 2 to 3 years to germinate.
There are a few seeds which will benefit
from stratification (periods of alternating warmth and
cold). This will occur naturally if the seeds are planted in the
Autumn (up to the end of January when a prolonged cold spell can still
be relied upon) and left to over-winter in a cold frame or covered outside.
It can also be achieved by putting the seed tray in a refrigerator for 6
to 12 weeks. Some examples are: Agrimony, Angelica, Bellflowers,
Betony, Bluebell, Cowslip, Wild Carrot, Wild
Clematis, Columbine, Cow Parsley, Marsh Marigold, Water Mint, Primrose, Oxlip,
Ramsons, Violets and Yellow Rattle.
Some hard-coated seeds may benefit from being
rubbed between two sheets of fine sandpaper (scarification) to aid water
absorption or alternatively they can be soaked in water
overnight. Some examples are: Bird's Foot Trefoil, Clovers,
Salad Burnet, some Cranesbills and Vetches.
If you need to store your seeds, put them in a moisture proof
container in your refrigerator where they will remain viable for much
longer than if kept at room temperature.
Sowing Instructions:
Sow the seed thinly and evenly into seed trays filled with a good
quality, multi-purpose seed compost. Seed can be sown in situ
outdoors if you have plenty of it, but the number of plants you end up
with may be less.
Very small, fine seeds do not need to be covered
with compost, but larger seeds will benefit from a fine covering of
compost - roughly the same depth as the seed is in size. Very fine
seeds can be mixed with silver sand to make them easier to sow evenly.
Water the seed tray taking care not to dislodge
the seeds themselves. I find it easier to stand the seed tray in a
larger container with a centimeter of water in it for 15 minutes,
allowing the soil in the seed tray to soak up what it needs.
Alternatively a fine spray may be used.
Do
not let the compost or seedlings dry out - keep them moist, but not soaked.
Growing On:
Prick out the seedlings into individual pots or cells when
they are large enough to handle. Grow them on in pots or cells of
compost until they have developed a good root system. Pot grown
plants will develop a good root system, which will ensure rapid
establishment when they are planted out into their final position.
A common cause of failure is incorrect
watering. Be careful not to over water or leave the plant pot
standing in water for more than a few minutes. Water thoroughly,
but leave the compost to almost dry out before watering again
thoroughly.
Slugs and snails may be a problem to your young
seedlings. If this is the case, do not use slug pellets as they will be harmful to other useful
wild life such as hedgehogs and frogs. A jam jar of beer sunk into
the soil will attract any slugs or snails in the vicinity and can then
be emptied out every few days. Copper rings can be used around
plant pots and work very well.
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